Brow Power

Linda Ruberto, local esthetician and makeup artist, believes that for men and women alike, the eyebrows are the single most important and most interesting feature of the face. She feels that brows make an important statement and will either attract or distract, affecting the first impression you make on others.

Linda moved to the Central Coast from Minnesota two years ago, after selling a large day spa and salon in the Twin Cities area. Wanting to simplify life, she opened a private skincare, waxing, and massage practice on Grand Avenue in Arroyo Grande, where fabulous eyebrow design is the main focus. It’s called—what else?—Star Brows.

Linda recalls, “When I first arrived in the Five Cities area, I expected a much more sophisticated spa culture. But, I had to go to Beverly Hills to get my own brows done. Not that there aren’t hundreds of stylists and estheticians in the area, but after painstakingly training hundreds of employees in the art of brow design, a five-minute ‘touch-up’ wasn’t going to do it.”

About the brow-design process, Linda says:

“Getting your brows shaped by a professional brow designer and makeup artist should be relaxing, pleasant, and pain-free. When you look in the mirror after your service, your first response should be ‘WOW!’

“Everyone has seen examples of tragically misshapen, over-tweezed brows.  Brows that are too thin can add years to your appearance and often will not grow back.

“I’ve developed a special technique called Brow Art. It’s a three-step process using Graphing (looking at the facial symmetry and structure), Hair Removal (waxing, trimming, and tweezing), and Colorization (tinting, brow makeup, shadows, concealing, and contouring) to create a perfectly unique shape for each individual.

“Some brows take several appointments over a period of time to perfect. The hair may need to grow back in certain areas, and making adjustments to balance both brows is essential.”

Fabulous brow design and expert precision, with a friendly, small town feel, express the spa culture Linda loves and brings to the Central Coast!

Shaping the Eyebrows with Perfect Precision Part 3

Shaping Your Eyebrows with Perfect Precision Part 3

Let’s get started:

1. Placement is first. Are the brows placed too high or low in relationship to the eyes? Is the head and tail of each brow sitting on the brow shelf? Adjust by removing hair on the top line to bring it down, and remove hair from the bottom line to bring it up. Over time this can improve as regrowth happens. Adjust only a few rows of hair at a time.

2. Trimming is next. Be conservative and cut following the angle you want the brow to move to. The brow hair should not be longer than the width of the brow base. Trim the hair by combing up and cutting, then comb down and cut. Be conservative and cut following the angle you want the brow to move to. The brow hair should not be longer than the width of the brow base.

3. Next, remove hair in between the two brow heads. A good rule of thumb is to line the brow head up with the inside edge of the nostril. If the brow starts at the tear duct it will draw attention to the “well” under the eye, as this creates a circle visually. You want the viewer’s eye to travel from the brow down the nose and into the aesthetic triangle or mid face triangle.

4. Shape the beginning of the brow first. The head lines up with the vertical nasal edge, closer to the bridge of the nose than the tear duct. It should be gauzy; I prefer a natural irregular border on the head of the brow. This is where hand tweezing comes in; several hairs can make all the difference. You may also need to ventilate the hair in the head. This is usually a thicker area and may be out of balance with the tail.

The width of the head should be 1/3 that of the arch (if from the crease of the lid to the high point of the arch is 1 inch; the head should be 1/3 of an inch). The head is the thickest part of the brow.

5. Now let’s shape the arch. The arch is proportionate to the structure of the face. It should echo the shape of the eye opening. The head of the brow should gradually taper to the high point of the arch which is located just outside the iris and is 2X the width of the lid. The arch moves into the tail slowly, without an abrupt angle.

6. Finally we shape the tail. The tail will end in a soothing airbrushed point in an imaginary line directed to the top of the ear, never toward the jaw. As you age you may prefer the tail lifting somewhat. The shape of the tail will echo the upper lip when properly placed. If the descent of the arch is too steep it will not be long enough to end on the brow shelf with the head.

The eyebrow should make a soft movement from thicker to thinner. No bows, swoops or extreme egg shapes at the arch. Fashion may dictate thicker or thinner, but the silhouette is always defined as what looks best on your own face.

Linda Ruberto

www.starbrows.com

Shaping Your Eyebrows with Perfect Precision Part 2

Choosing a good salon:

• Are the waxing supplies and surrounding area very clean?
• Waxing contraindications should be discussed with you.
• A health assessment needs to be done and a consent form signed.
• Is the service provider licensed to perform the service and is the certificate posted? (This is mandated by each state.)
• Proof of liability insurance should be available.

Terminology: There are a few terms I like to use to describe the process of shaping eyebrows.

Aesthetic triangle – An inverted triangle in the center of the face (also called the mid face contour). It extends from the chin to the side of each eye, with a line under the brow bone (brow shelf) where the head of the brow and the tail rest. This is the communication hub of the face.

Head – The part of the brow closest to the nose (1/3 the width of the arch area). The head of the brow is placed so that the eye of the viewer is drawn down the side of the nose and not into the socket under the eye. The nasal edge of the head should be gauzy and natural – no sharp border. If the eyes are close set or small the head should be shaped more horizontally (not droop down).

Tail – The part brow closest to the ear. The shape echoes the top line of the upper lip.

Top Line – The top contour of the brow.

Bottom Line – The bottom contour of the brow.

Arch – The high point of the brow located on the outside (lateral edge) of the eye’s iris.

Eyelid area – Measured from the base of the lashes to the crease of the lid. If this area is very small (Asian eyes) consider shadowing the crease area to diminish the excessive arch area.

Arch area­ – Measure from the crease of the lid to the arch (2X the width of the lid).

Base cutting – Trimming the hair to the skin without extracting the follicle root.

Brow Shelf – The top line of the aesthetic triangle, located beneath the brow bone. The head and tail of the brow should sit on the same plane.

Ventilating – Lightening up a heavy brow or brow part. Go into the dense parts of the brow with a tweezers and take as many hairs out as it takes to ventilate and balance the brow. The head may be very dark and thick and the tail is light and thin.

Linda Ruberto

www.starbrows.com

Shaping Your Eyebrows with Perfect Precision Part 1

Stop! Read this before removing any hair.

• Waxing and tweezing damage the hair follicle root. Over time you may not grow hair back where you want it and hair thins as you age. I recommend keeping a very natural brow in your youth, so you have hair left to work with when you get older.
• I almost never recommend shortening the tail of the brow. There are very few sebaceous glands in this area and regrowth is negligible.
• Hard wax (strip less) is best for the delicate eye area. It doesn’t adhere to the skin and is designed for sensitive skin. I like Berins or Cirepil.
• You will need to use sunscreen after you wax for at least 3 days – make sure it offers full UV protection (zinc oxide is one ingrediant you want to see on the label).
• Don’t tan or use products that contain AHA or BHA for at least 3 days before (or after) you wax.
• If you are on an RX for a skin condition, waxing may not be recommended. Hand tweezing is best in this case.
• First consider your style: Natural (some clean up mostly on the underside of the brow), High Fashion(strong arch, crisp lines, tweezed to perfection, hair from above and below the brow), Bohemian (take out the obvious hair but leave the top of the brow untouched, keep a shaggy head, and lightly tweeze the underside of the brow).
• Consider a practice run: Use cosmetics to experiment with the look you want. You’ll need: an eyebrow pencil (to draw in “faux hairs where you want regrowth), brow powder (to soften the pencil and fill in gaps), and a white highlighter cream (to erase hair you want to remove).
• To access the proper placement of the brow, stand about two feet away from the mirror.
• Consider the width of the bridge of the nose and how the closely the eyes are set when following the recommended guidelines. Some adjustments may need to be made. Use eyebrow cosmetics to experiment.
• Consider base cutting before removing hair from the root when you are unsure of the outcome.
• Look for scaring or growths in the body and border of the brow and leave hair longer around these areas (the “comb over” effect). No hair will grow in the scar tissue.

Linda Ruberto

www.starbrows.com

Best Facial Moisturizer Ingredient

The most important ingredient in a moisturizer is hyalurnan or hyaluronic acid (HA). This is a natural substance which is found in all living organisms and is the main component of the connective tissue in the human body. HA can hold moisture at 1,000 times its molecular weight, which is more than any other natural substance. HA is involved in tissue repair. When skin is excessively exposed to UVB rays, it becomes inflamed, causing sunburn. The cells in the dermis stop producing as much HA, and increase the rate of its degradation. Topical use helps hydrate the skin and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Oily skin benefits from this substance as well, as the skin may be “water dry” and have some compromised barrier integrity or imbalance.

Watch labels to make sure your moisturizer contains it.
My favorite is DermaQuest’s Advanced B5 Serum. It was developed by Sam Dhatt, a highly respected, award-winning cosmeceutical chemist and the founder of DermaQuest™ Skin Therapy, Inc. During his 20-year career as a respected formulator, Dhatt has developed and manufactured skincare products for over 700 companies, including many of some of the best-known brands in the industry. This deep penetrating gel formulated with sodium hyaluronate and Vitamin B5 is an excellent dermal hydrator. It restores the skin’s natural moisture level, promotes tissue repair and leaves the skin looking healthier. For oily skin it can be used alone as a moisturizer. For normal to dry skin it can be used as a supplement to a moisturizer or to aid in healing the skin.

Linda Ruberto

www.starbrows.com

Star Brows by Linda Ruberto Press Release

 
 

Entrepreneurialism runs in the family

Paso vintner’s daughter moves to area and launches local beauty business.

   ARROYO GRANDE, Calif.  – November 12, 2007.   Linda Ruberto, daughter of Robert Hall, owner of the well-known Paso Robles winery of the same name, has decided to follow in her father’s footsteps by opening a business of her own in Arroyo Grande.  And though her business and her dad’s are very different, both cater to the same class of clientele:  people who enjoy the finer things in life. 

   Star Brows by Linda Ruberto will offer eyebrow design, body waxing, massage, and skincare and will officially open its doors Nov 12th.  The new business will be located at 1148 E. Grand Ave. in Arroyo Grande. 

Ruberto, a licensed esthetician and certified massage therapist, is a recent transplant from St. Paul, Minnesota.  Back home, she ran a day spa and salon, which she owned for 13 years before selling and moving to the Central Coast.   

    Ruberto is pleased to report that she’s been welcomed to the area with open arms—an area she is fast growing to love.  Says Ruberto, “I feel like a local already. Everywhere I go someone knows me or my family.” She describes Arroyo Grande, where she’s decided to both live and set up shop as “the perfect blend of small town friendly with a big city feel.”

   According to Ruberto, she and her husband Paul have been planning this move for 6 years.  “We’ve visited the area many times over the years, for our daughter Valery’s graduation from Cal Poly and her wedding to Jonathan Hoekman, for our second daughter Angela’s move to the area to attend Cuesta College, and for visits to my dad in Paso Robles.”

   Ruberto finds it “fun to be reunited with family, have a new business, and wear flip flops every day.”  She adds, “I thank this community for all the love and support I have received.”

   Regarding her chosen profession, Ruberto candidly admits, “I’m obsessed with eyebrow design and am known for stopping people on the street (men too) to offer a consultation.”  About her new enterprise, she adds, “I also do body waxing, massage and shiatsu as well as skincare and chemical peels.”  What can we expect to see at Star Brows in the future?  Ruberto promises, “I will be doing some ‘eyebrow parties’ as well as mobile waxing services for VIPs.”

   Ruberto looks forward to helping her clients fulfill the Star Brows motto:  “Look for the beauty in others and recognize it in yourself.”

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For additional information about Star Brows or to schedule an interview with Linda Ruberto, please call 651/246-9396 or send an e-mail to lindaruberto@gmail.com.

Ladies; 10 reasons why Brazilian waxing is worth it.

As I write my very first blog post, you may be thinking about doing your first “Brazilian” wax.

There are other methods of hair removal, but nothing takes the place of waxing.

1. It is fast (first time allow up to 45 minutes) but normally takes 15-30 minutes.

2. Maintenance can be done monthly (as opposed to shaving which needs to be done almost daily).

3. For the results you get, it is worth the cost. I charge according to how long it takes. (There is a maintenance price offered if you come on a regular basis.)

4. The hair follicle is pulled by the root, so over time (barring hormonal and other unforeseen variables) is discouraged from re-growing, and the hair can become softer and less dense. 

5. The discomfort involved with this procedure is mainly associated with a sudden sensation as the hair is removed, but quickly diminishes.

6. It is a professional service and feels pampering.  

7. Women prefer the “clean” feeling they get.

8. Skimpy swimwear requires grooming.

9.  Ingrown hairs mostly associated with shaving are painful.

10. Body hair is not considered fashionable.

Exactly what is Brazilian waxing?:

It is a type of waxing  involving the bikini area. This procedure normally involves the complete removal of all hair in the bikini area, front to back. Some types of Brazilian waxing leave a small line of hair. It is named after Brazil, the country with which it is most often associated and from which the modern practice originated. In Brazil itself, it is not called Brazilian waxing, but simply depilar (to wax, to pluck hairs). In Middle Eastern societies, removal of the body hair is considered a proper form of hygiene, necessitated by ancient local customs. Contemporary sources indicate that the French nobility also practiced waxing during the 17th century.

And what is the process you ask?: 

The client begins by removing her clothing from the waist down. The procedure starts by trimming hair to about 1/8 of an inch. (Some service providers like to have you come already trimmed.) Then, a light application of powder or oil is spread over the area to be waxed. This prevents the wax from sticking to the sensitive skin. Next, wax is spread in sections over the area from which hair is to be removed. The wax is allowed to harden briefly, then one edge of each wax strip is pulled off in the opposite direction of the hair growth. The waxer then works  her way around the body. This procedure removes the wax, hair, and any dead skin cells lying on the skin surface. Finally, a calming, antibacterial agent is applied.

The skill and experience of the service provider is key. The first time you do it, you may need “breaks” and a slower pace to acclimate to the new experience. Most say they have less discomfort during subsequent treatments. There are over-the-counter products available if you are very sensitive. I don’t recommend any waxing immediately before (or during) your period when you are generally most sensitive. About a week after your period, if you can time it that way, is the ideal time.

I recommend working with a licensed  Esthetician (skincare professional) to perform this procedure. There can be complications, side effects or contraindications to the treatment, and a skincare professional can address these best. As a professional I need to include a few words of caution:

• There is a risk of infection if done on a person with a weakened immune system.
• Folliculitis can occur with sensitive skin; it usually appears as small, white-headed pimples around one or more hair follicles — the tiny pockets from which each hair grows. Most cases are superficial and short lived; they may itch, but on occasion they’re painful. It often clears by itself in a few days, but deep or recurring folliculitis may need medical treatment.
• On rare occasions tearing may occur and an MD will need to do a stitch or two. If a thorough health questionnaire is not given, contraindications may be missed.
• It may flair a Herpes outbreak if you are prone. (You can take a medication from the MD to prevent this.)
• Waxing during a “healthy” pregnancy is fine.

So, here are my tips for a successful experience:

• Use a licensed professional (an esthetic or cosmetology state license is required to be posted for public view).
• Check to see if they carry professional insurance in case something goes wrong (you can ask to see a certificate, but even so some insurance companies that cover all other waxing don’t cover this procedure).
• Make sure the working conditions of the waxing salon, as well as the  supplies, are clean and sanitary.
• Get all your questions answered up front before you start (preferably on the phone when making the appointment), and be sure to discuss medications you take, medical history, contraindications and other concerns.
• Think about taking an anti-inflammatory  before your appointment to help reduce swelling and discomfort.
• Discuss post waxing care before you leave the salon. I use a special essential oil to help calm and soothe the area after the treatment. At home you may need to use a product that helps prevent “acne.” Again, ask your professional what she recommends for YOU.
• Hard (strip-less) wax is best, it is designed for sensitive areas.

Happy Waxing!

Linda Ruberto LMT,LE

www.starbrows.com