Shaping Your Eyebrows with Perfect Precision Part 3
See Part 1 and Part 2
Let’s get started:
1. Placement is first. Are the brows placed too high or low in relationship to the eyes? Is the head and tail of each brow sitting on the brow shelf? Adjust by removing hair on the top line to bring it down, and remove hair from the bottom line to bring it up. Over time this can improve as regrowth happens. Adjust only a few rows of hair at a time.
2. Trimming is next. Be conservative and cut following the angle you want the brow to move to. The brow hair should not be longer than the width of the brow base. Trim the hair by combing up and cutting, then comb down and cut. Be conservative and cut following the angle you want the brow to move to. The brow hair should not be longer than the width of the brow base.
3. Next, remove hair in between the two brow heads. A good rule of thumb is to line the brow head up with the inside edge of the nostril. If the brow starts at the tear duct it will draw attention to the “well” under the eye, as this creates a circle visually. You want the viewer’s eye to travel from the brow down the nose and into the aesthetic triangle or mid face triangle.
4. Shape the beginning of the brow first. The head lines up with the vertical nasal edge, closer to the bridge of the nose than the tear duct. It should be gauzy; I prefer a natural irregular border on the head of the brow. This is where hand tweezing comes in; several hairs can make all the difference. You may also need to ventilate the hair in the head. This is usually a thicker area and may be out of balance with the tail.
The width of the head should be 1/3 that of the arch (if from the crease of the lid to the high point of the arch is 1 inch; the head should be 1/3 of an inch). The head is the thickest part of the brow.
5. Now let’s shape the arch. The arch is proportionate to the structure of the face. It should echo the shape of the eye opening. The head of the brow should gradually taper to the high point of the arch which is located just outside the iris and is 2X the width of the lid. The arch moves into the tail slowly, without an abrupt angle.
6. Finally we shape the tail. The tail will end in a soothing airbrushed point in an imaginary line directed to the top of the ear, never toward the jaw. As you age you may prefer the tail lifting somewhat. The shape of the tail will echo the upper lip when properly placed. If the descent of the arch is too steep it will not be long enough to end on the brow shelf with the head.
The eyebrow should make a soft movement from thicker to thinner. No bows, swoops or extreme egg shapes at the arch. Fashion may dictate thicker or thinner, but the silhouette is always defined as what looks best on your own face.