Tag Archive: Eyebrow Shaping


My first California brow wax was done at Billion Dollar Brows (BDB) in Beverly Hills. This is the company that helped inspire me to take my passion for perfect brows and make it a business!

They contacted me the other day and sent their whole product line for me to sample! Generous, huh? I love to shop for you, finding the perfect products at the best prices.

It was great timing because I have been looking for the right brow and lash conditioner with a growth stimulant. I’ve been using their Brow Boost for a couple of weeks and am pleased with the results – and it’s only $20! Even if your brows and lashes are long enough, it is a great conditioner that keeps them in shape and healthy.

I bought BDB’s Brow Duo Highlighter when I visited them a couple of years ago.  It’s a pencil with concealer on one end and highlighter on the other. It works great and is fast, easy, and affordable! $18

The Brow Gel is a “must have”, it gives you hold and control and gives your brows the perfect, polished, finished look. $12

My favorite brow powder, Hi-Brow, unfortunately comes from the now-defunct company, Trucco. Even though I stocked up, I will run out at some point. So, pick it up now before supplies are gone! I’m working with BDB’s Hint Of Tint, Brow Powder, and Universal Brow Pencil right now to see if they are  suitable replacements. Come in and tell me what you think. 😉

Watch for Billion Dollar Brows at Star Brows!

See you at the spa!

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These little scissors have been around forever, different versions date back to the 1800’s. The Tweezerman Stork  Scissors  are sharp, pointy and oh so cute and tiny. They can be found everywhere – Target, Walmart and online.

http://www.tweezerman.com/scripts/item.cfm?gc=H&sc=ST&itemsku=3042-R

My favorite use is for brow trimming;

  • Don’t tweeze out  grey hairs,  instead cut them short and color the whole brow.
  • Comb (with mascara wand) the brows up and then down to decide where you can trim. Hold the hairs out straight and cut with the curve of the brow.
  • You may need to leave longer hairs (think comb over!) to cover scars or bald patches.
  • If your brow is very dense, do sporadic diagonal cuts in the brow body (not sure you want to try this at home ;-), but it looks great. Many times the brow “head” is thicker than the “tail”, cross cutting helps create balance.

A professional is recommended, at least periodically for shaping. And if your in my area, I’d love to see you personally!

Hint – If your scissors ever stick, put a drop of oil in the joint and work back and forth to loosen.

See you at the spa!

So many uses for these little reusable spoolies. You can pick them up at Sallys, drug stores, department stores or get them free at the nearest makeup counter!

  • Unclump mascara
  • Separate lashes with the tip
  • Use when you have an eye infection so you don’t contaminate the mascara tube
  • Position your brows so you can trim them
  • Put gel on you brows to keep them in place
  • Brush the brow to eliminate dead skin flakes under the brow hair
  • Clean your diamond ring (use toothpaste too)

Other uses you’ve tried?

See you at the spa!

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Linda Ruberto, local esthetician and makeup artist, believes that for men and women alike, the eyebrows are the single most important and most interesting feature of the face. She feels that brows make an important statement and will either attract or distract, affecting the first impression you make on others.

Linda moved to the Central Coast from Minnesota two years ago, after selling a large day spa and salon in the Twin Cities area. Wanting to simplify life, she opened a private skincare, waxing, and massage practice on Grand Avenue in Arroyo Grande, where fabulous eyebrow design is the main focus. It’s called—what else?—Star Brows.

Linda recalls, “When I first arrived in the Five Cities area, I expected a much more sophisticated spa culture. But, I had to go to Beverly Hills to get my own brows done. Not that there aren’t hundreds of stylists and estheticians in the area, but after painstakingly training hundreds of employees in the art of brow design, a five-minute ‘touch-up’ wasn’t going to do it.”

About the brow-design process, Linda says:

“Getting your brows shaped by a professional brow designer and makeup artist should be relaxing, pleasant, and pain-free. When you look in the mirror after your service, your first response should be ‘WOW!’

“Everyone has seen examples of tragically misshapen, over-tweezed brows.  Brows that are too thin can add years to your appearance and often will not grow back.

“I’ve developed a special technique called Brow Art. It’s a three-step process using Graphing (looking at the facial symmetry and structure), Hair Removal (waxing, trimming, and tweezing), and Colorization (tinting, brow makeup, shadows, concealing, and contouring) to create a perfectly unique shape for each individual.

“Some brows take several appointments over a period of time to perfect. The hair may need to grow back in certain areas, and making adjustments to balance both brows is essential.”

Fabulous brow design and expert precision, with a friendly, small town feel, express the spa culture Linda loves and brings to the Central Coast!

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Shaping Your Eyebrows with Perfect Precision Part 3

See Part 1 and Part 2

Let’s get started:

1. Placement is first. Are the brows placed too high or low in relationship to the eyes? Is the head and tail of each brow sitting on the brow shelf? Adjust by removing hair on the top line to bring it down, and remove hair from the bottom line to bring it up. Over time this can improve as regrowth happens. Adjust only a few rows of hair at a time.

2. Trimming is next. Be conservative and cut following the angle you want the brow to move to. The brow hair should not be longer than the width of the brow base. Trim the hair by combing up and cutting, then comb down and cut. Be conservative and cut following the angle you want the brow to move to. The brow hair should not be longer than the width of the brow base.

3. Next, remove hair in between the two brow heads. A good rule of thumb is to line the brow head up with the inside edge of the nostril. If the brow starts at the tear duct it will draw attention to the “well” under the eye, as this creates a circle visually. You want the viewer’s eye to travel from the brow down the nose and into the aesthetic triangle or mid face triangle.

4. Shape the beginning of the brow first. The head lines up with the vertical nasal edge, closer to the bridge of the nose than the tear duct. It should be gauzy; I prefer a natural irregular border on the head of the brow. This is where hand tweezing comes in; several hairs can make all the difference. You may also need to ventilate the hair in the head. This is usually a thicker area and may be out of balance with the tail.

The width of the head should be 1/3 that of the arch (if from the crease of the lid to the high point of the arch is 1 inch; the head should be 1/3 of an inch). The head is the thickest part of the brow.

5. Now let’s shape the arch. The arch is proportionate to the structure of the face. It should echo the shape of the eye opening. The head of the brow should gradually taper to the high point of the arch which is located just outside the iris and is 2X the width of the lid. The arch moves into the tail slowly, without an abrupt angle.

6. Finally we shape the tail. The tail will end in a soothing airbrushed point in an imaginary line directed to the top of the ear, never toward the jaw. As you age you may prefer the tail lifting somewhat. The shape of the tail will echo the upper lip when properly placed. If the descent of the arch is too steep it will not be long enough to end on the brow shelf with the head.

The eyebrow should make a soft movement from thicker to thinner. No bows, swoops or extreme egg shapes at the arch. Fashion may dictate thicker or thinner, but the silhouette is always defined as what looks best on your own face.

Linda Ruberto

http://www.starbrows.com

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Choosing a good salon: Part 2 (See Part 1 and Part 3)

  • Are the waxing supplies and surrounding area very clean?
  • Waxing contraindications should be discussed with you.
  • A health assessment needs to be done and a consent form signed.
  • Is the service provider licensed to perform the service and is the certificate posted? (This is mandated by each state.)
  • Proof of liability insurance should be available.

Terminology: There are a few terms I like to use to describe the process of shaping eyebrows.

Aesthetic triangle – An inverted triangle in the center of the face (also called the mid face contour). It extends from the chin to the side of each eye, with a line under the brow bone (brow shelf) where the head of the brow and the tail rest. This is the communication hub of the face.

Head – The part of the brow closest to the nose (1/3 the width of the arch area). The head of the brow is placed so that the eye of the viewer is drawn down the side of the nose and not into the socket under the eye. The nasal edge of the head should be gauzy and natural – no sharp border. If the eyes are close set or small the head should be shaped more horizontally (not droop down).

Tail – The part brow closest to the ear. The shape echoes the top line of the upper lip.

Top Line – The top contour of the brow.

Bottom Line – The bottom contour of the brow.

Arch – The high point of the brow located on the outside (lateral edge) of the eye’s iris.

Eyelid area – Measured from the base of the lashes to the crease of the lid. If this area is very small (Asian eyes) consider shadowing the crease area to diminish the excessive arch area.

Arch area­ – Measure from the crease of the lid to the arch (2X the width of the lid).

Base cutting – Trimming the hair to the skin without extracting the follicle root.

Brow Shelf – The top line of the aesthetic triangle, located beneath the brow bone. The head and tail of the brow should sit on the same plane.

Ventilating – Lightening up a heavy brow or brow part. Go into the dense parts of the brow with a tweezers and take as many hairs out as it takes to ventilate and balance the brow. The head may be very dark and thick and the tail is light and thin.

See you at the spa!


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Stop! Read this before removing any hair.

See Part 2 and Part 3

  • Waxing and tweezing damage the hair follicle root. Over time you may not grow hair back where you want it and hair thins as you age. I recommend keeping a very natural brow in your youth, so you have hair left to work with when you get older.
  • I almost never recommend shortening the tail of the brow. There are very few sebaceous glands in this area and regrowth is negligible.
  • Hard wax (strip less) is best for the delicate eye area. It doesn’t adhere to the skin and is designed for sensitive skin. I like Berins or Cirepil.
  • You will need to use sunscreen after you wax for at least 3 days – make sure it offers full UV protection (zinc oxide is one ingrediant you want to see on the label).
  • Don’t tan or use products that contain AHA or BHA for at least 3 days before (or after) you wax.
  • If you are on an RX for a skin condition, waxing may not be recommended. Hand tweezing is best in this case.
  • First consider your style: Natural (some clean up mostly on the underside of the brow), High Fashion(strong arch, crisp lines, tweezed to perfection, hair from above and below the brow), Bohemian (take out the obvious hair but leave the top of the brow untouched, keep a shaggy head, and lightly tweeze the underside of the brow).
  • Consider a practice run: Use cosmetics to experiment with the look you want. You’ll need: an eyebrow pencil (to draw in “faux hairs where you want regrowth), brow powder (to soften the pencil and fill in gaps), and a white highlighter cream (to erase hair you want to remove).
  • To access the proper placement of the brow, stand about two feet away from the mirror.
  • Consider the width of the bridge of the nose and how the closely the eyes are set when following the recommended guidelines. Some adjustments may need to be made. Use eyebrow cosmetics to experiment.
  • Consider base cutting before removing hair from the root when you are unsure of the outcome.
  • Look for scaring or growths in the body and border of the brow and leave hair longer around these areas (the “comb over” effect). No hair will grow in the scar tissue.

See you at the spa!


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