Picture Perfect

I did a photo shoot the other day down at the Creek in the little village of Arroyo Grande with  photographer and friend, Marilyn Rivas Tate. What a beautiful setting, and what a photographer! Marilyn (and her equipment) were amazing.

At 55 I wasn’t very confidant about doing “beauty shots”. I knew I could do my makeup – duh, and I knew she could make the magic on her end, but I’m not a 20 something model anymore – so I was apprehensive.

I had to do my makeup early in the morning because I had a full day of clients. My everyday makeup would have left my features washed-out for photos.

Here is a list of what I did for my session with Marilyn and what I recommend when I do makeup for a special event or photo session.

1.) One week before the event you should do your last skincare treatment. I recommend a facial Peel that is appropriate for your skin-type. An exfoliating and hydrating treatment will provide a smoother, more even canvas for makeup application.

2.) 3 days after a peel you can have your eyebrows waxed. Fabulous brows are a must!

3.) To prep the skin before you apply makeup: cleanse your face, spritz with toner (Climate Control by Senegence), use a product with sodium hylauronate (Hy-Drate by Tu’el) to retain the skin’s water, and apply sunscreen.

4.) If you need sweat-proof makeup for the heat, humidity, or the scrutiny of  flashbulbs, wear an oil absorbing product. Greasy skin does not look pretty in pictures or in real life.

My pick: Absorb by Tu’el

5.) Prime-time! Almost ready for makeup. But first, primer is something to have on hand when you have a crazy-long day, or when you want a flawless look. It creates a protective base and a smoother surface for fine lines, acne scaring or any other irregularity in the skin. It allows foundation to be applied evenly and effortlessly.

6.) Hmmm, what foundation to wear? Youngblood Mineral Makeup of course. I love the option of very light to full coverage with this mineral makeup. It also has an SPF rating of up to 30 (about 8 SPF for most applications). Did you know it is better to have wear  mineral makeup than bare skin when going out?

7.) Next add highlighters, bronzing powders, blush and contouring.

• Highlight the eyes. Under the brow bone and by the tear duct, place some white or brightening highlighter. I don’t love shimmer or glitter on older, crepey or dry skin 😥 matte is better. But for all you kids out there (or for those who don’t give a s*^#) shimmer away!

My pick: Sandstone Pink Cream by Senegence. This is one of celebrity MUA Kandee Johnson’s favorite products!

• Contour the eyes. Puffy upper lids require shadow in earth tones (grays or browns) to minimize.

My pick: Trucco Hi-brow Trio

• Use a darker foundation or bronzing powder, in hollows of checks and possibly under the chin and the sides of the nose – every face is different.

My pick:  Sunglow Mineral Makeup

8.) Lashes! Curl, prime, curl again, and coat 1,2,3 or more times.

My pick: Youngblood’s Outrageous Lashes Mineral Lengthening Mascara

9.) Lips! With out a doubt Lipsense by Senegence is my #1 pick

10.) Brows! A professional shaping and consultation is essential. Don’t do any waxing at least 3 days before the event in case you break out a little.

• Use a pencil a little lighter than you want the brows to end up, to fill in and lengthen the brow shape.
• Brush them out.
• A brow powder will soften and add dimension to the eyebrow (the same Trucco Hi-brow Trio you used to contour the eyes is perfect).

11.) And finally, whether your on the big or the little screen, you need to understand the importance of taking it all off at the end of the day.

I can’t wait to get my skin clean because I know the secret to having great looking skin in the morning is removing all that makeup at night, and this is one of the most important beauty tips you can follow.

If you leave makeup on overnight, it can clog your pores causing all kinds of breakouts, blackheads, and uneven skin tone. Plus, your skin renews itself at night and cant effectively do that if its covered in old makeup.

My pick: Hydrophylic Cleansing Oil and Herbalizer by Tu’el

12.) And last but not least, get plenty of beauty sleep the night before!

See you at the spa!

Sun and Sunscreen 101

Everyone’s always talking about UV rays and how bad they are and how you need a certain type of SPF to block out those rays. But what do all those acronyms mean? What are UV rays? Are they bad? And if UV rays are bad, how do you combat them? Well, let me tell ya!

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is present in sunlight. It is considered an environmental human carcinogen. The effects of UV rays on normal skin include: skin cancer, sunburn inflammation and hyper pigmentation (also known as sunspots). In addition, UV rays can also have a negative impact on the immune system.

UV falls into 3 categories:

1.) UVA– can penetrate glass, it oxidizes melanin (the brown stuff), that’s already present and triggers the release of more melanin in the skin. It has less energy than other UV rays, but penetrates deeply. Fortunately, it does not cause redness. However, UVA can generate chemical changes which can damage DNA. Because it does not cause reddening of the skin it cannot be measured in SPF testing.

2.) UVB– stimulates the body to produce more melanin and produce a “burn”. They are the most potent rays that reach the earth, and can produce skin cancer.

3.) UVC- These are the highest energy UV rays.  They have the shortest wave length and could be the most harmful to your skin and eyes. They should be completely absorbed by the ozone layer, however the earth’s protective shield is increasingly compromised.

So, what is a tan anyway? My kids used to taunt me by saying, “Mom, I’m going out to get some sun damage!”

A tan is the skin’s defense against UV radiation, the brown pigment (melanin) in the skin increases when exposed to moderate levels of radiation. In healthy skin with moderate exposure, Melanin absorbs UV radiation and dissipates the energy as harmless heat, blocking the damaging of skin tissue.

It is important that sunscreen block both UVA,UVB and UVC. A skincare professional can recommend a product; or you can take a few notes about ingredients to look for in a full spectrum block like: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide  (life guards wear it – it’s clear now) and avobenzone.

Here is one of my favorite sunscreens, especially for sensitive skin that react to the chemicals in sunscreens: Tu’el Oil Free Essential Protection SPF 30.

Most products contain an SPF rating to show how well they block UVB rays only. However they typically offer no data about UVA protection. In other words, that 80 SPF sunscreen you have sitting in your bathroom may or may not be working.  Since UVA rays don’t cause redness, there’s no way to tell if they’re damaging your skin.  The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is considering adding a star rating system to show UVA protection. (Note to the FDA: Hurry up already, it’s been promised for years!)

Everyday sunscreens should be at least SPF 15. If you’re going to be in the sun for prolonged periods, make sure it’s SPF 30, and remember to get one that is formulated to block the full spectrum of rays.

I recommend applying sunscreen to the entire body right after showering, and to the face after washing it. That way the product has time to soak in and take effect before going outside. It’s a good idea to slather on a second application when you hit the beach, or will be having prolonged exposure.

A white cotton shirt has a SPF of about 8, but if the shirt is tight and the weave stretched, it’s much less. If the shirt gets wet, fades or is several years old, its ability to protect against the sun is even more reduced. Did you know that dark colors absorb more UV rays (that’s a good thing), than light colors. That is why you are hotter in a black shirt than a white one.

Adding a hat and UV protective sunglasses to your sunscreen will help protect your face completely.

If all that wasn’t enough to convince you to slather on the sunscreen, here’s a few more fun (sun) facts:

• One per cent of wrinkles are caused by ageing; 99 per cent are caused by the sun.
• It only takes one severe burn during childhood to double the risk of skin cancer in adult life.
• Using SPF 15 during the first 18 years of life lowers skin cancer odds by 80 percent.
• An easy way to remember the difference between UVA + UVB rays: UVA = ageing, UVB= burning.

So remember – practice safe sun!

See you at the spa!

What is Chemical Peel?

Aestheticians sometimes call their use of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) when doing facials – chemical peels; but they are not peeling the skin, they are resurfacing. Whats the difference? There are 3 levels or strengths of AHAs available:

1. Cosmetic-you can get these at the drug or department store – see The Isles of Beauty

2. Cosmeceuticals-available to licensed skincare specialists.

3. Pharmaceuticals-doctors use these or write a prescription for them.

AHA’s work mainly as  exfoliants. They cause the cells of the skin in the upper layers to become “unglued,” allowing the dead skin cells to slough off and making room for regrowth of new skin deeper down.

AHA’s also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin and improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation or sun damaged skin.

Some examples of AHA’s are: Glycolic – sugarcane, Lactic – sour milk products, Citric – citrus fruits, Malic – apples and pears, Tartaric – grapes.

For home use, I love: Glyco-A Gel by Tu’el

There is also a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) called salicylic. All  the acids have different strengths and purposes. So, what’s the difference between the BHA & AHA’s? Two words: lipid solubility, aka a substance’s ability to dissolve in oil. AHA’s are water soluble, and BHA dissolves in oil. So…oily skin likes BHA and normal to dry skin like AHA’s.

Try: 5% Salicylic Acid Clarifying Pads by DermaQuest Skin Therapy.

Side Effects of these acids include; irritation, sun sensitivity, redness, and itching.

Rosacea is a skin disease that responds favorably to some forms of resurfacing, but because this condition is often red, irritable and swollen,a patch test on the inside of the arm to check for allergic response or sensitivity is recommended. The capillary walls are near the surface of the skin in this condition (hence the redness and veiny appearance) so the skin needs extra protection. The skin is also thin, so toughening it up and thickening it with AHAs can be helpful.

AHA & BHA products may reverse some of the damage caused by the sun, but at the same time they make the skin more susceptible to sun damage. When using resurfacers use a good sunscreen – see Sunscreen 101 , that contains UVA and UVB protection.

My favorite: Oil Free Essential Protection SPF 30 by Tu’el

See you at the spa!